SHARKS AND SURFING IN SA

SHARKS AND SURFING IN SA

I have always been hesitant to write a blog post about sharks and surfing in South Africa due to how controversial the issue has become of late. However, in light of the recent shark attack in Muizenberg (the first attack there in 11 years), which took place on Friday 1st August 2014, I feel compelled to put some thoughts and facts on ‘paper’.

The international media has in my opinion, instilled an irrational fear of sharks into the minds of many visitors to South Africa. Read this article on the Shark Savers website for similar sentiments. We are often faced with the question ‘so what about sharks?’ when we get enquiries for surf lessons. There seems to be this misconception that by putting your big toe into the ocean in South Africa, a shark is going to come and hunt you down (Jaws theme music and visions of a Great White mouth wide open come into play).

The TRUTH is: there ARE sharks in the waters of South Africa. The FACT is: they are NOT prowling the ocean in search of humans. It has been said that shark attacks on humans are generally mistaken identity. If we had to consider the sheer number of ocean users on any given day vs. the number of shark-human interactions the statistics are considerably low when compared to your chances of being crushed by a vending machine, or even having a coconut fall on your head. See the info graphic below below:

Cape Town has several beaches with a shark spotting programme. This programme was started to further minimize the very small risk of a shark attack. It also aims to make a difference to shark conservation and alter public perception on how sharks and humans can co-exist. The beaches where you will find shark spotters on duty are: Noordehoek, Muizenberg, Koel Bay and Fish Hoek. The spotters have a flag system to communicate with the public that is as follows:

SOUTH AFRICAN SURFING HISTORY

SOUTH AFRICAN SURFING HISTORY

There is a vast selection of tales, that have been told and embraced along our coast, but through it all, one can piece together the stories of various South African legends.

These legends, will go on to transform the sport of surfing in South Africa and all over the world…

From the unassuming beginnings of SA Surfing in Muizenberg, which took place in 1919 when Heather Price became the first recorder stand up surfer on our shores.

To the leaps taken by the Three Arcadians in board shaping and design.

All the way to recent years, when South Africans helped to shape the sport into the extraordinary spectacle it is today.

Heather Price: The first recorder stand up surfer in SA.

According to surfingheritage.co.za: Ross Lindsay, whose wife Kay, is Heather Price’s niece, visited Heather in Zimbabwe before she passed away.

It was there, that she told Ross emphatically that “she surfed standing up” and made it very clear that she had advanced beyond the general wave-riding technique of the day which was to lie down on wooden belly boards.

This new style of surfing, as explained in the book by Jack London: ‘The Cruise of The Snark’. A book in which he described the surfing exploits in Waikiki Beach, inspired Tony Bowman to build his own ‘surf-boats’ with only a few pictures from the Honolulu Tourist Association as a guide line for measurements.

He was joined by Lex Miller and Bobby van der Riet and eventually became known as The Three Arcadians, as they used to work on their designs, behind the Arcadia Tea Room.

All the way across the South African coastline, in Durban, things were also heating up, as the warm waters and tropical climate, summoned many holidaymakers to the beaches.

This led to the creation of the Durban Surf and Life Saving Club in 1927 and to the Pirates Surf and Life Saving Club in 1928.

These men, were capable ocean swimmers and created their own rescue techniques and patrols, due to their passion for the ocean and high regard for mass safety, whilst enjoy the bathing styles of the era.

At the time these activities involved entering the water till about chest height and body boarding or plaining on wooden-belly boards for the more daring.

As with any club, the Surf and Life Saving Clubs in Durban had keen pseudoscientists, one of whom was Fred Crocker, a railways carpenter and member of Pirates SLSC who by the mid 1930’s was experimenting with diverse craftsmanship tasks.

The birth of stand up surfing came after the Empire Games which took place in Sydney Australia in 1938.

The South African swimming coach and member of Durban Surf LSC, Alec Bulley had visited a Sydney beach to see what lifesavers were doing in Australia and he sketched the stand-up wave riding craft lifesavers were using.

He gave his sketches to Fred Crocker of Pirates SLSC, who built a ‘ski’ which in the Souvenir Program of SA Surf Life Saving Championships hosted by Pirates SLC at Country Club Beach, Durban. 21 April 1957 it is reported as being:

Twelve feet long and two feet, six inches wide and it tapered back and front, with a boarded over deck and flat bottom.

This made the ‘Ski’ very heavy, and it needed two men with a lot of courage and energy to handle it.

Fred Crocker tinkered with his design, making it lighter and altering the size until the “Crocker” ski, was eventually hailed as the ideal craft to ride any size or type of wave.

SA has had a major impact on surfing, which is, sadly, often overlooked. This however was not the case in the glorious eras of the 60s and 70s when a fresh breath of air was given to surfing.

With epic movies, such as Bruce Brown’s ‘The Endless Summer’, which introduced the world to some of the greatest surf spots on earth and to the surfer’s dream.

This movie depicted some of the waves around the magnificent South African coastline.

At a time when Muizenberg was the epicenter of surfing culture in the Cape, as was Durban in Natal, Bruce Brown’s movie, introduced the world to the then-unknown break in Cape St. Francis, which quickly became one of the world’s most famous surfing sites.

This part of the South African coastline is also home to an other world class South African Break and playground of the South African leg of World Surf League (WSL) Championship.

The beautiful surfer town known as Jeffrey’s Bay, or J-bay.

J-Bay, has hosted world class surfers over the years. Surfers such as Kelly Slater, Mick Fanning and South Africa’s own Jordy Smith, to name a few.

This small town has breaks for all levels of surfers. From the surreal Supper Tubes to the calmer main beach break, surfing enthusiasts will not be disappointed.

South Africa’s history with surfing has never been more evident, then it was in the 2009 documentary by Jeremy Gosch: ‘Bustin’ Down The Door’.

“During the winter of 1975 in Hawaii, surfing was shaken to its core. A group of young surfers from Australia and South Africa sacrificed everything and put it all on the line to create a sport, a culture, and an industry that is today worth billions of dollars and has captured the imagination of the world. With a radical new approach and a brash colonial attitude, these surfers crashed headlong into a culture that was not ready for revolution. Surfing was never to be the same again.” Written by Dan Schreiber, resourced from IMDB.

Shaun Tomson (SA)

Mark Richards (AUS)
Rabbit Bartholomew (AUS)

I truly believe that South Africa has been a fundamental part in the evolution of surfing, although, it is occasionally over looked by its people.

However with the increasing of popularity of the sport, athletes representing South Africa in both Longboarding and Short board championships and a mentality which forces you to go in search of your best wave, I am sure it will not be the last time South Africa makes surfing headlines.

MUIZENBERG: A SURF LEGACY

MUIZENBERG: A SURF LEGACY

On our recent learn to surf trip along the Southern Cape, we had fun using our mobile phone to capture some of the special moments of this trip. The images below show that these surf trips are more than just learning to surf…they are about embracing the spirit of adventure, getting off the beaten track and experiencing the highlights of this area from an alternative, local perspective.

A Cape Town woman and Muizenberg legend, who befriended two U.S. Marines whose ship had stopped over in Cape Town en route to America after WWI.

The marines had brought with them two solid wooden “Hawaiian” Style surfboards. This type of board is also known as an alaia surfboard.

According to Heather they took their boards with them when they sailed. We fought the urge of adding the saying “Boys and their toys” but failed as it seems nothing has changed between a surfer and their board.

Surfing continued to captivate the hearts and souls of all kinds of people and by 1921, Tony Bowman, was ones of them. He was a pilot who was returning from World War 1 and settled in the one and only, Muizenberg. 

After Tony read “The Cruise of the Snark” by Jack London, a book in which he described surfing on Waikiki Beach, he was captivated by the beauty of riding waves and was inspired to build his own versions of surf “boats”.

He wrote to the Honolulu Tourist Association for pictures of surfing so that he could determine the dimensions of the boards being used in Hawaii.

Tony, was joined by Lex Miller and Bobby van der Riet. They became known as ‘Three Arcadians’.

They made the boards in a workshop behind the Arcadia Tea Room and strived to improved their boards with every attempt.

The ‘Three Arcadians’ constructed three boards using a hollow timber construction, covered with canvass and painted to make the boards watertight.

It was not too long before,they were joined by many others who wanted to share in the ‘stoke’ and like that, stand-up surfing was established at Muizenberg.

A few decades later, in the 1960’s, the decade when the eccentric and highly elusive “Hippie” generation, rose to ‘Fight the power! Man…’, with outlandish ideas of peace, love and happiness, which strike very similar cords to those of ‘stoke’.

The beach lifestyle became ‘fashionable’ once more; and now it was here to stay.

Muizenberg was the epicenter of the “Surf Culture” in the Cape, as was Durban in Natal.

Bruce Brown’s classic movie “The Endless Summer” introduced the growing world of surfers and the surf lifestyle, to some of the best waves on earth; and in turn, created a desire for the true surfers dream of living a life guided by the search for waves.

After the introduction of Shortboarding in the late 60′s and early 70′s, Longboard Surfing dwindled as a common surfing style, especially when the slow wide maneuvers where replaced by fast paced carves.

However, in 1989 the sport was rejuvenated with the establishment of WP Longboard Surfing (based in clubhouse in Muizenberg).

The SA Champs have been held annually since 1989 with Western Province, Eastern Province and KZN, each hosting the Champs in turn. Longboarders represent the biggest chunk of the surfing community in Muizenberg, as the wave is a gentle one, perfect for the classically elegant maneuvers of Longboarding.

Almost a century after the birth of South African surfing, Muizenberg was in the news with another sufring first.

In 2009, The Earthwave Global Surf Challenge was successful in Muizenberg.

This is a Cape Town initiative which attempts to break the Guinness World record for the most surfers riding one wave simultaneously and the ‘Berg was making surfing headlines once more with 110 people surfing one wave – talk about sharing in the ‘stoke’.

This challenge takes place annually on beaches world wide in September and seeks to raise awareness whilst offering practical advice on how to combat the threat of global warming and its effects on our oceans.

We would like to thank surfingheritage.co.za and muizenberg.info for photos and information on SA Surfing history.

SURFER SLANG 101

SURFER SLANG 101

Welcome to Surfer Slang 101

I am sure a lot of you have seen that video of the surfer, tyring to explain his wave in what seems to be; a bunch of incoherent sounds. 

Well now, you too can learn just what he was ‘talking’ about!

Let us start off with the simple ones, so we can ease you into this wonderful world of misconception:

 

A

Aerial/ Air

1.    A trick where the board takes off from the lip of a wave and after shoring through the air, lands back on the face of the wave and continues to ride.

2.    Term for Aerial or description of the size of the aerial.

E.g.”I got some serious air on that last wave”.

 

A-frame

A A-shaped wave, with nice left and right shoulders, and the highest point in the middle of the peak.

 

Axe/axed

A heavy wipeout, usually involving the wave’s lip impacting directly onto a surfer. Also called drilled, pummeled, etc.

 

B

Backside/backhand

Refers to the position in which you are facing the wave. Surfing backside means that your body is facing away from the wave face towards the beach.

 

Back paddle

Paddling in front and around someone to take the closest spot to the wave peak or takeoff spot, when they think that spot is theirs.

 

Bail, bail out

To abandon one’s surfboard before getting wiped out by the wave, either paddling out, or while riding the wave.

 

Barrel/Tube

When the wave is curling over its peak causing a breaking wave between the lip and face. A surfer may be completely hidden from view during a barrel ride, especially from shore. 

 

Beach break

Waves breaking on a sand bottom beach.

 

Blown out

Surf condition in which either onshore (most prominent) or offshore winds have eliminated the ridable sections of waves, reducing them to chop or mush.

 

Body surfing

Surfing a wave using only the body or minimal equipment such as flippers or a hand surfing device.

 

Bomb

Bomb means a very large wave, well beyond the session’s normal wave size.

 

Boogie board

A short, soft foam board used for bodyboarding. Also known as a body board.

 

Boost

To take off from a wave into an aerial, to jump from the lip of a wave.

 

Bottom

1    The lowest section of the face of an unbroken wave.

2    The lower surface of a surfboard.

 

Bottom turn

A turn at the bottom of the wave face.

 

C

Caught inside

When a surfer is on the “inside” and trapped between the shoreline and breaking waves. Oncoming waves can make paddling back outside difficult, hence being “caught” in an undesirable position. This usually means the surfer will have to wait for a delay between the larger breaking waves for a chance to slip into clear water.  Also know as no man’s land, white zone or crash zone.

 

Channel

1    Design feature of a surfboard to guide water along its underside.

2    A trench between sand banks or reefs. Often associated with a strong current.

 

Choppy

Surf condition in which the waves are inconsistent, broken, or generally irregular (see, Blown Out).

 

Clean

Smooth waves, usually good surfing conditions.

 

Clean-up set

A much larger wave or a set of waves, which breaks further outside than normal. A clean-up set usually “cleans” the line-up of surfers caught further inside.

 

Close out

An undesirable situation in which a wave does not break uniformly along its length. Instead one or more sections of the wave break ahead of the section the surfer is riding.

 

Cutback

A classic surfing move used to change direction when streaking ahead of the curl of a wave with a powerful turn back towards the breaking part of the wave (white water). Cutbacks are an important element in surfing as the maneuver repositions the surfer closer to the power of the wave. 

 

D

Deck

The upper surface of a surfboard.

 

Ding

Damage, usually a hole or dent, to the surfboard.

 

Double overhead

A wave twice as tall as its rider.

 

Double-Up

A type of wave that is really more like two because the more obvious, larger wave, has another wave developing from its wave face. Also known as a “Humpback.”

 

Down-the-line

A reference to the direction further along the crest of a wave from the location from where a surfer drops into the wave. The direction toward which the surfer is riding. Waves can also be described as “down-the-line” when the wall is long and fast.

 

Drop in

Taking off on a wave that is already being ridden by another surfer. Contrary to good etiquette.

 

Duck dive

A method for getting through a broken or large wave without being washed towards the shore. Basically, pushing the surfboard and one’s body under the wave.

 

Dude/Dudette

A fellow surfer; friend; companion. If you’ve caught a wave with a board, standing, kneeling or body then you’re one.

 

E

Eddie would go

A reference to legendary waterman Eddie Aikau, renowned for taking on waves others would shy away from. Eddie went to paddle for help when the Hawaiian ocean voyaging canoe Hokule’a ran into trouble off the Hawaiian island of Kaho’olawe, and was never seen again. This phrase is often seen on bumper stickers throughout Hawaii.

 

Epic

An adjective to describe an excellent surf session, a great wave, etc. Example: “how was it yesterday? Ah dude, it was epic!”

 

Eskimo Roll / Turtle Roll

A method for getting through a broken or large wave without being washed towards the shore. Basically, rolling the board over so the water rushes over the underside (which is facing upwards). 

 

F

Face

Unbroken, forward-facing portion of the wave, where most waveriding occur.

 

Fin chop

Injury caused by the fins of a board, usually someone else’s. Can be very dangerous.

 

Floater

Frontside or backside maneuver that involves “floating” over the broken part of a wave and re-entering the more ridable crest.

 

Frontside/ Forrehand

Refers to your body position in relation to the wave face. Surfing ‘frontside’ means that your body is facing the wave face and your posterior portion is facing the beach.

 

Funboard

A surfboard somewhere between a shortboard and a mini-mal, designed for ease of surfing in a range of conditions.

 

G

Glassy

A very favourable, windless surf condition in which the texture of the ocean surface is ultra-smooth, like glass.

 

Gnarly

Heavy, intense waves or situations. Very often overused.

 

Goofy-footed

A surfer who places their right leg forward while surfing. This is more common for a left handed person, although may not necessarily relate to a person’s “handedness”. 

 

Going off

A term to describe very good, consistent surf. Example: “Check it out, bro. It’s just going off!” Also refers to a surfer who is surfing particularly well.

 

Grommet

Young surfer. Sometimes shortened to “grom”. Can also refer to children in general, not just those who surf.

 

Gun

A long narrow board designed for surfing big waves. The term comes from elephant gun, a big board being needed for big waves in the same way a big gun imagined necessary for big animals.

 

H

Hang five

A longboarding trick in which the toes of one foot are curled around the nose of the surfboard.

 

Hang ten

An advanced longboarding trick in which the toes of both feet are curled around nose of the surfboard.

 

Heavy

Powerful, difficult conditions where a surfer could be in danger. Literal in origin, as it often refers to mass of water being lifted by the wave. Heavy waves, have fatter/heavier lips and often cause surfers to get ‘axed’.

 

Hold down

To be held underwater by a wave. A two-wave hold down is to be held down while two waves pass over. A hold down usually feels much longer than it actually is.

 

Humpback

A type of wave that is really more like two because the more obvious, larger wave, has another wave developing from its wave face. Also known as a “double-up.”

 

I

Impact zone

Where the waves are breaking. Also known as no man’s land or white water.

 

Inside

The takeoff position on a wave closest to the curl than any other surfer. Also “caught inside”: being located inshore of the breaking waves or inside the impact zone or break line.

 

J

Jacking

A wave condition in which a swell rises very quickly as it passes from deeper water to shallow water. A radical shoaling process caused by an extreme variation in water depth as the swell hits the shallow reef or ocean floor. Often creates very hollow and intense waves that appear to grow suddenly in height; thus “jacking up”.

 

K

 

Kick out

A controlled exit from the wave by riding up and over the top of the wave.

 

Kook

Any person who is in the line-up and unconsciously causing trouble or problems for their fellow surfers. A kook is usually a beginning surfer and surfers use kook similar to how you use newbie. Can also be used as an insult. 

 

L

Layback

A maneuver where the surfer leans back off his/her board, usually during a cutback.

 

Leash

A cord used to prevent the board being washed away from the surfer. Surfboard leashes are usually attached to the ankle, whereas bodyboard leashes are usually attached to the wrist. 

 

Line up

The line up is often mistakenly thought to be the line of surfers waiting for waves just beyond the breaking waves.

The phrase was originally used, and still is, to describe the line a breaking wave follows. From when the wave starts breaking, following the line of the reef or sandbank. The “line up” is used to decribe the rideable part of the wave that a surfer will follow. To paddle through the line up is considered to be both dangerous and rude behaviour. This is a mistake often made by many beginner surfers, resulting in frightening near misses or dangerous accidents.

 

Localism

Term given to hostility displayed by local surfers to surfers visiting what the locals consider to be their break. The hostility can range from graffiti, verbal abuse in the line up, wiping of surf wax over the windscreen of the visitor’s car, to physical violence (as preferred in Hawai’i allegedly).

 

M

Malibu surfboard

60’s style longboard, made with heavy glass, long parrell 50/50 rails, and deep single fin. Made especially for triming, (walking the board) and for noseriding. Aussies use the term “mal” for most all longboards.

 

Mini mal

Mini Malibu

 

Mushy/ soup

A surf condition in which waves are crumbly and soft without any steepness or much energy. Gutless and weak.

 

N

(g)Narly

Slang term for awesome, great, exciting

 

Natural footed

A surfer who places their left leg forward while surfing. This is usual for a right handed person. Often called “Regular footed” in the U.S. See also Goofy footed, the opposite stance.

 

Nose

The front of the board.

 

Nose guard

A rubber tip stuck to the nose of a board to reduce injury if it strikes someone.

 

Nose ride

A maneuver in which the surfer walks to the front of the surfboard and rides on the nose. It is usually only possible on a surfboard of 8′ or longer.

 

O

Off-the-lip

A re-entry. Turning the board quickly off the top of the wave to come back down into the face of the wave.

 

Out-the-back/Outside

The area outside of the lineup or break line where surfers in the lineup initially observe sets of waves as they approach. Often a term used to warn other surfers in the lineup that a new set of waves is approaching. overhead

Wave heights taller than the surfer riding it. Often used as a measurement scale of waves such as 2 feet overhead, three feet overhead, double overhead, triple overhead. Etc.

 

Over-the-falls

The worst kind of wipeout in which a surfer is sucked back over the top of the wave as it breaks, and free-falls down with the lip (the most powerful part of the wave). This type of wipeout can cause bad injuries because the surfer will likely hit the reef or ocean floor.

 

P

Peak

Where a wave forms in a manner that the surfer is able to go both right or left from the take off.

 

Pearl

A wipeout caused when the nose or front of the surfboard digs into the water, generally causing the surfer to tip-off forward. Usually occurs when dropping into a steep part of a wave.

 

Pipeline

Pipeline is a world famous surf spot on the North Shore of Oahu so known because it lays downs tubed waves like pipe being laid down.

 

Pocket

The section of a wave just ahead of the broken section, where the face is at its steepest.

 

Pointbreak

Variety of surf break when waves wrap around a point of land creating perfectly lined up, peeling waves. The waves actually interact with the bottom contours just offshore of the point to refract and wrap around the point.

 

Pull in

The process of turning the surfboard up to enter the barrel or the tube.

 

Q

Quiver

A surfer’s collection of boards.

 

R

Rail

The edge or sides of the board.

 

Rashee

A Lycra rash guard surfer shirt.

 

Re-entry

Turning on the lip of the wave to come back down into the face of the wave.

 

Rip

A surfer who rips is one who is seriously skilled, and often shows this off in the view of other surfers or spectators.

e.g. “Look at that grom – he absolutely rips!”

 

Rip current

A channel of water, or a current, heading out to sea. Often simply known as a rip. Recognizeable by choppy whitewater and sea junk going out to sea.

 

Rocker

The longways curvature of the underside of a board. More rocker means a more curved board, less means a flatter board. Generally a flatter board goes faster, but some curve is needed to stop the nose digging into the water, or to “fit” the curve of the wave.

 

Rooster tail/Spray

The trail of spray when a surfer hits the lip very hard, causing spray to shoot out at nearby surfers.

 

Roundhouse cutback

A complete 180-degree directional change in which the surfer turns from the shoulder all the way back into the curl or whitewater of the breaking wave, before completing the ride. A very advanced maneuver, which is difficult to complete if enough speed isn’t carried throughout the entire 180-degree turn. A roundhouse cutback is usually complemented by a foam bounce recovery off the approaching whitewater.

 

S

Schwip thing/wax scrapper thing

an item used to scrape the wax from a surfboard. Often a deodorant lid or milk bottle lid is used to good effect.

 

Section

A segment of a total wave. It resembles what they call in music, “a bar or measure.”

 

Set

A group of waves, usually large, that come in from the “outside.” Surfers usually paddle towards the outside (towards the horizon) when they spot a good set.

 

Sharky

Surf conditions are cold and choppy with lots of churning. “It’s too sharky to surf today,” meaning, surf only a shark would like. Or if you’re from an area such as northern California that has a large shark population sharky is used to describe a spot that has more than the usual number of large sharks and has more than likely has had an attack or numerous sightings. “Yeah super fun spot but real sharky.” = great waves and big fish.

 

Shorebreak

A dangerous condition, due to high tide or larger surf, where the waves break in one single “wall” onto the beach, often in shallow water. Getting caught in shorebreak can be an unpleasant experience. Also called “shorepound”.

 

Shortie

A wetsuit with short legs and short, or no, arms. Sometimes known as a spring or summer suit.

 

Shoulder

The very edge of a breaking wave that is unbroken.

 

Sick!!!

A superlative term applied to anything that is really good. Example: “That last air I busted was totally sick”

 

Slash

An aggressive carving turn off the top of a wave.

 

Slot

If a surfer is “in the slot”, he or she is riding a barrel.

 

Snake

(slang, US) (noun and verb). Used to describe someone who deliberately “drops in” in front of a surfer who has the right-of-way. Also, someone who quickly sneaks behind another surfer with the right-of-way, putting his/her self in position to take more waves. Example: “Watch out for that guy, he’s a serious snake!” Or: “You snaked me!”

 

Soup

The white water of a breaking wave.

 

Speed bump/sea biscuit

Derogatory phrase used to describe a Bodyboarder.

 

Stall

A method to slow the surfboard to allow a wave to catch or overtake it. Performed by stepping to the tail of the surfboard or simply leaning back and resting one’s weight on one’s trailing foot.

 

Stick

A slang term for a surfboard

 

Stoked

Excited. (from stoking a fire)

.

.

.

ohh but it is so much more!!!

 

Stringer

The wooden strip which runs the length of the board, designed to give strength and rigidity to the board. These can either be single, for short boards or lighter weight long boards, or double or triple stringers for longboards. Double and triple stringers are great for using longboards in more powerful or large waves, but add weight to the board.

 

Surf

Collective term for the breaking and near-breaking waves at a beach, in which surfing takes place.

 

Surf camp

Accommodations for surfers and surfing enthusiasts where you can learn how to surf.

 

Surfing

A lifestyle…but technically, the physical activity of riding waves.

 

Style

You can be a great technical surfer, but without style and flow you are just a surfer. To be a great surfer, you need to draw influence from the past and identify your own way of surfing the wave.

 

Switchfoot

1.    Riding with one’s wrong foot forward, ie. opposite to one’s usual natural/goofy preference. 

2.    A surfer who can ride with either foot forward. Generally such a surfer will ride forehand in both directions.

 

T

Tail

The rear of the board.

 

Tail pad

Rubber non-slip pad stuck to the top of the board near the tail where the surfer’s rear foot goes. Used instead of wax, generally used only on a shortboard.

 

Take off

To catch a wave and begin the ride.

 

360

Pronounced “three-sixty”. A trick involving turning the board through a full circle on the face of the wave.

 

Thruster

A surfboard with three fins. Designed by Simon Anderson in 1980 and now used on almost all shortboards.

 

Tombstoning

The condition of a surfboard connected to a submerged surfer after a wipeout. A surfboard that appears to be bobbing up and down on the surface of the ocean due to the underwater anchoring point, e.g., the unseen surfer, is tombstoning.

 

Tube

(noun) The inside of a hollow wave.

(verb) The act of surfing inside the curl of a breaking wave.

 

Turtle roll

A paddling maneuver to help reduce resistance when paddling through whitewater, by rolling the surfboard upside down (with the fins up), and then holding on to the rails of the surfboard while underwater as the whitewater passes overhead. Used especially with longboards because the board’s increased flotation makes “duckdiving” (the preferred method) difficult.

 

V

V bottom

The shape of the bottom of a surf board

 

W

Waxhead

Obsolete term for a keen surfer. It comes from the 1960s when boards were heavy solid wood and were carried balanced on the head, wax-side down, getting wax in the surfers hair.

 

Wetsuit

A neoprene (rubber) garment used for surfing in winter or when it is cold. Orinially invented by Jack O’Neill, founder of famous surfing brand, O’Neill wetsuits. 

 

Wettie warmer

(slang, Australia) Urinating in one’s wetsuit. Widely practiced, though it’s not a good idea because the chemicals in urine can cause the rubber in a wetsuit to deteriorate more rapidly than normal. In cold water it helps one feel warmer though.

 

Whack

Slang term for a Re-entry. Where maximum spray is thrown out the back of the wave from the vigorous motion of the board hitting the top of the wave.

Also known as “Thwack” or “Shwack”

 

White water

A frothy, broken wave.

 

Wipe out

Terminating a ride, ungracefully (as in falling off!).

SURFILATES

SURFILATES

On the 12th October 2013, Stoked School of Surf teamed up with The Studio Group to put together an innovative ‘Surfilates’ workshop which was run on Muizenberg beach. Pilates instructors Claire and Nicole, each took a group through some surf specific Pilates movements on the beach.

The group was then divided into beginner and intermediate surfers and taken through a surf lesson where the groups were shown how the exercises they had just done in the Pilates class translated to their surfing movements.

It was a fun Saturday morning out and the feedback we had was so good that we have decided to put together some ‘Surfilates’ packages. These 4- week packages would include  a combination of 1-2 Pilates classes and a surf lesson weekly for weeks 1-3. In the fourth week, the Pilates and surfing will be combined as one continuous ‘Surfilates’ workshop on the beach. By students strengthening their core and working on their balance during their Pilates classes, we are hoping that this will translate to their surfing by improving paddling endurance, speedier ‘pop ups’, improved balance on the board, quicker responses to changes in direction on a wave and faster recovery after a surf session.

In my own experience I have found that Pilates is the best way to build ‘core’ muscle strength and flexibility for the specialized group of deep abdominals that so often get neglected in most exercise regimes. Having suffered from back pain for years, resulting in me not being able to surf for months at a time, Pilates has been the only form of exercise that has helped me. After three months of going to Pilates three times a week I went on a surf trip to Indonesia and was able to surf for hours on end with no pain. Pilates has also helped improve my surfing through better balance and flexibility. It is for this reason I feel so strongly about recommending a combination of both the Pilates and surfing for better performance and enjoyment of one of the best ways to spend a few hours in the ocean.

SOUTH AFRICAN SURFARI

SOUTH AFRICAN SURFARI

May is great time of year to surfari around South Africa, especially if you’re headed north. The land and sea temperatures get warmer as you venture further away from the Cape. The winter storms start to roll in fanning swell up the East Coast producing beautiful line ups.

We were fortunate to have 5 weeks on the road exploring our unspoilt country and coastline starting in Kruger dipping into  Mozambique and then snaking along the coast from Durban all the way back to our home, Cape Town. When the surf forecast looked unfavourable, we’d head inland to explore the snow capped highlands of the Drakensberg, the incredible wildlife of the Kruger and the craft beer breweries of the Midlands.

Below are a few images that capture the highlights of our 5 week South African Surfari:

 

Nothing quite like a savannah sunset sky…Sunset over the Kruger. 

Mozambican Point Break Ponta do Ouro Point Break.

Mozambican Point Break Ponta do Ouro Point Break.

4 x 4 adventure to the top of the Lesotho mountains. Snow capped Lesotho mountain. South Africa Surfari in Lesotho
The dreamy line up we woke up to for 8 consecutive days…Dreamy South Coast point break
The Autumn leaves of the Midlands Meander are as amber as its ales.
Sharing perfect warm water, glassy waves with good friends. South Africa Surfari.
Dolphins were the only surfers sharing waves with us on the Wild Coast.
The spectacular hike to Hole in the Wall.
Room with a view. Wild Coast Sunrise.
Wild Coast Gridlock.
David lines himself up for yet another reeling ride at SA’s most photographed wave…Supers. Super Tubes.
Stoked to have a paddle with my brother.
Cape Town welcomes us home with a warm winter sunset after an epic 5 week adventure.
For more information on our surf trips email info@stokesurfschool.com
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